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Khan Tengri Expedition with Andrew Lock

World Expeditions are excited to announce that Andrew Lock will be leading our 2018 Khan Tengri expedition! At 7010m (22,999ft) the spectacular ice pyramid of Khan Tengri is the second highest mountain in the Tian Shan range and lies on the border between Kazakhstan & Kyrgyzstan. After flying to our base camp at 4000m on the North Inylchek Glacier, we have ample time to acclimatise and fine-tune our skills on the nearby peak of Karly Tau (5450m). From base camp we will climb the moderately technical and steep north ridge leading to the snow covered dome of Chapayev Peak (6100m). Two camps will be placed on this ridge at 4800m and 5500m. A third camp, using either snow caves or tents, will be established on the saddle between Chapayev Peak and Khan Tengri at 6000m and from here we will follow the west ridge/face to the summit. High altitude porters will be used to carry group gear, allowing you to focus on the climb and save your energy for summit day. Technical and exposed sections of the climb are climbed using fixed ropes, and our expert leaders will assist you in achieving your goal of reaching the summit of this exceptional mountain.


Fully inclusive expedition including expert western and local leadership
Return charter helicopter flights to base camp
23 breakfasts, 21 lunches 21 dinners, in base camp & on the mountain
3 star accommodation in Almaty on a twin share basis
Airport transfers
Hot shower and sauna in base camp
Electric generator in BC for mess tent lighting and battery charging
Staff insurance
Expedition medical kit
Portable high altitude chamber & satelite phone
All climbing and boundary zone permits
Climb Khan Tengri (7010m) via the northern side of the mountain
Experience expert leadership provided by Andrew Lock
Take a spectacular helicopter flight to Inilcheck Glacier Base Camp
Benefit from ample acclimatisation and generous summit window
Enjoy a fully supported expedition including sauna and hot shower in base camp
Tour Provider World Expeditions
Number of Days
Price From
AUD $7,190
Start Location
Almaty, Kazakhstan
End Location
Age Range
Avg. 100+
Group Size
7 to 10
Tour Style
Tour Themes
Physical Rating
Tour departure dates
26 Jul 201818 Aug 2018AvailableAUD $7,190
Day 1
On arrival you will be met and transferred to your hotel. Normally international flights into Almaty arrive late in the evening. If you wish to arrive prior to day one please discuss with your World Expeditions reservations consultant.
Day 2
After an early breakfast transfer to Karkara BC. En-route we make a visit to the Berkutchi (eagle hunting) Museum. Golden Eagle hunting is one of the oldest methods of hunting for food. Central Asian ancestors in the Eurasian steppes mastered the art of eagle hunting several thousand years ago, in the Andronov age. Eagle hunting was mainly practiced in the northern and central regions of Kazakhstan, while in the south hunters preferred to use hawks and falcons. Each bird was intended to hunt a particular type of animal, golden eagles usually catch corsacs and hares. The stronger, well-trained eagles proved useful for hunting hoofed animals and even wolves. 200km east of Almaty lies the Charyn Canyon. In close proximity to the Chinese border it is part of the Charyn National Park, established in 2004. The canyon stretches 154kms along the Charyn River in the northern Tian Shan mountain range. A strikingly beautiful place, the canyon is known for it's unusual rock formations and bares semblance to some of the great canyons found in western USA. Finally we arrive in base camp and begin preparations for the coming acclimatisation days.
Day 3
An important day to commence acclimatisation process as we attempt an ascent of Bas Karkara Peak. The climb is a reasonably straight forward one and the higher we are able to get the better for acclimatisation purposes.
Day 4
Today an exhilarating helicopter ride takes us breathtakingly close to the mountains as we make our transfer to our BC for the remainder of the expedition.
Day 5
Gear checks will be carried out today with your leader, and a briefing of the days to come.
Days 6-7
Commence acclimatisation on Khan Tengri. We take 2 days to reach camp 2, stopping and sleeping in camp 1 overnight.
Day 8
Climb to Chapayev Peak shoulder & return to camp 2 for overnight.
Days 9-11
With our acclimatisation process now complete we retrace our steps back to base camp. 2 days are set aside for rest and final preparations before commencing our summit attempt on Khan Tengri.
Days 12-13
After a good 2 days rest in base camp we are finally ready to make our attempt on Khan Tengri. If the group are moving well we will go all the way to camp 2 today, allowing us more contingency time for the summit attempt. Weather will be a major factor in our decision making from this point, and your leader will keep you informed and fully briefed on the days ahead.
Day 14
From camp 2 we climb through the shoulder which is our previous high point, and descend to 6000m to our camp. Camp 3 is usually set in a snow cave which accommodates approx. 10 people. Using snow caves reduces the amount of gear we need to carry and is a common strategy on Khan Tengri, but just in case snow cave is not an option we will bring our tents with local guide support.
Days 15-21
We are now in position to make our attempt on the summit of Khan Tengri. If the weather agrees we can make our summit bid straight away, if however, we encounter adverse weather conditions we have allowed an extra 2-3 days in our itinerary to be flexible and sit out the weather if necessary. On the descent we will most likely plan to return to camp 3 from the summit, and then camp 2 the following day. Final day will see us descend from camp 2 to base camp and a well earned shower and hot meal!
Days 22-23
All going well we leave Khan Tengri BC by charter helicopter today. The spectacular flight over the mountains is another unforgettable experience on a most memorable and rewarding expedition in Central Asia.
Day 24
After breakfast transfer to the airport for onward arrangements.